レザーラバーの皆様、今日も元気に革ジャン着ていますでしょうか？現在日本は夏真っ盛りの8月、いくら革ジャン好きでもこの暑さで革ジャンを着てる人はほとんどいないと思います。それでも革ジャンを買うなら、夏がベストという話は聞いたことはないでしょうか？特に中古品を購入するなら、革ジャンのシーズンオフを狙う方がリーズナブルに買えます。そして筆者は昨年、ルイスレザーのサイクロンを注文したのが8月でした。つまり、注文して丁度1年経過したということです。あとどれくらいでルイスが納品されるのか気になっていたので、注文したお店に電話してみました。ということで今回は、ルイスレザーの注文状況のご報告から、”他メーカーのロンジャンを探そう” というテーマでお届けしたいと思います。
↓1年前にルイスレーザーを注文した投稿
・ルイスレザーズ・オーダーの現状
2023年8月某日、筆者は福岡のルイスレザーズ正規販売店である「レディオセブン」にて、ヴィンテージターコイズのサイクロン・タイトフィット・40サイズをオーダーしました。あれから丁度1年が経過したので、納品はいつになるか、お店に聞いてみることに。結果から言うと、順調にいって2024年12月、もしかしたら2025年2月くらいになるかもしれないとのことでした。ということは1年4ヶ月〜1年6ヶ月待ちになります。うーん、流石に1年半かかると思ってなかったので、ちょっと意気消沈。
しかし、ルイスレザーズ直営店である東京＆大阪以外は2024年3月以降オーダーもできない、吊るし（在庫のこと）もない状況のようです。オーダーが殺到しすぎていて、どんどん待ち時間が長くなっているので、オーダーをストップした模様。一時期は注文から納品まで1年8〜10ヶ月待ちだったようなので、オーダーストップして少しは回復してきたとのこと。気長に待つしかないと考えながらも、今秋にロンジャンが着たくてたまらなくなってきました（汗）。
・筆者オススメのロンジャン３ブランド
革ジャンは大きく分類すると2種類あります。以前にも説明しましたが、アメジャンとロンジャンです。筆者が現在所有している革ジャン4着がアメジャン、内1着はGジャンタイプです。666を売却してしまったので、現在はロンジャンは1着も持っていません。ロンジャンと言えばルイスレザーズと言われるくらい、ルイスは絶対的な存在ですが、他にも品質の良いロンジャンはあります。それでは、現在購入できる筆者オススメのロンジャン3ブランドを順に見ていきたいと思います。
❶James Grose（ジェームスグロース）
イギリスのレザーブランドであるジェームスグロースは、1867年にロンドンで設立されました。当初は、レザーではなく、バイクやパーツのディーラーでした。そしてWWⅡ終戦後のUKモーターサイクル全盛期には、レザージャケットの製作・販売に着手します。それから約20年、イギリスのバイカーに愛されるレザーブランドに成長したのですが、残念ながら1971年に経営難で倒産することになりました。
それから40年以上が経過した2013年、工場に眠っていたジェームスグロースの2着のヴィンテージが、ブランド復活のきっかけとなります。半世紀近く前に作られたレザーウエアとは思えないほどの完成度に驚き、もう一度ジェームスグロースを再出発させることになりました。劇的な復活を果たしたジェームスグロースは、ロンドンにファクトリーを構え、熟練された職人さんが革ジャンを手作業で作っています。
それではジェームスグロースの代表的なレザージャケットを見ていきましょう。
・ニューマニラ（ダブルライダース）
まず初めに紹介するのがジェームスグロースを代表するダブルライダース「ニューマニラ」。フロントにフラップベルト、背面にサイドバックルが付いているデザインは、ルイスのサイクロンとライトニングのいいとこ取りです。前面に４つのボールチェーン付きポケットがあるので、使い勝手が良いです。ルイスやアディクトに比べてタイトめなフォルムですが、シンプルで無駄のないデザインの「ニューマニラ」はオススメです。
↓スープスキン（羊革）
↓カウハイド（牛革）
↓ホースハイド（馬革）
・リカルド（立ち襟ダブルライダース）
続いて紹介するのが、立ち襟ダブルライダース「リカルド」。ジッパーを閉めるとシングル風、襟を畳んでボタンをとめるとダブルになるのがリカルドの特徴です（下記写真参照）。そしてシンプルな見た目ながら、モーターサイクルジャケットに必要な防風仕様なので、ライダーに選んで欲しいレザージャケットです。
↓カウハイド
・クラブマン（シングルライダース）
３つ目に紹介するのが、ジェームスグロースを代表するシングルライダース「クラブマン」。ルイスで言うドミネーター型ですが、胸ポケットが斜めに入っているのがクラブマンの特徴です。ボールチェーン付きのハンドウォーマーポケット、背面にサイドベルトを介しており、シンプルながら存在感のあるシングルなので、レザー初心者に選んで欲しい1着です。
↓シープスキン
↓カウハイド
❷666（トリプルシックス）
ルイスやジェームスグロースがバイク乗りのレザーウエアなら、日本発祥の666はパンクロッカーに愛された革ジャンです。1983年、大阪のアメリカ村（心斎橋）に666の前身となる「FACE」がOPENしました。まだ80年代の日本には、パンクファッション扱うショップがなかったこともあり、パンク好きな若者に人気を博しました。そしてオープンから2年後の1985年、666のブランド展開がスタート。666はイギリスのパンクファッションと日本の着心地の良さを融合した、独自のスタイルを確立しました。元ブルーハーツの甲本ヒロト氏など、数多のロックミュージシャンが愛用したレザーウエアとしても、666は有名になりました。
革はステアハイド（牛革）、ホースハイド（馬革）、シープスキン（羊革）の3種類。ルイスでいうサイクロンやライトニングと同型のダブルライダース、シングルライダースなど様々な種類を揃えています。ルイスやジェームスクロースよりもリーズナブルで、カラーパターンも多く、バイク乗りが選ぶライダース入門編としては申し分ないのが666だと思います。オンラインショップ（http://www.666jp.com/）でサイズ・色・仕様などを選べば、今なら数ヶ月〜半年で納品できるようです。筆者も以前はライトニング型の666ダブルライダースを所有していました。それでは、666の代表的な革ジャンを3点見ていきたいと思います。
・LJM-1（UKサイドベルト・ライダースジャケット）
666ダブルライダースの中でも一番の定番モデルで、ルイスのサイクロン型とほぼ同型です。左右の腰あたりに2本ずつサイドベルトが付いています。シルエットはレギュラーフィットかタイトフィット選べるだけでなく、丈も普通と長めがあります。またこれは666ライダースの特色なのですが、フロントはダブルジップファスナーになっています。
・LJM-8 （フロントフラップ・ライダースジャケット）
こちらのダブルライダースは、ルイスでいうところのサイクロン型。ウエストバンド仕様で、先端に２つのスナップボタンが付いており、ウエストをとめることができます。このベルトは、バイクのタンクにファスナーが当たって傷つかないようになっています。前述のLJM-1よりも着丈が長く作られています。そしてこのモデルも、レギュラーフィットとタイトフィットが選択可能です。
・LJM-17（シングルライダースジャケット）
セックスピストルズのベーシスト、シド・ビシャスが着用していたライダースをモチーフとして作られたのがLJM-17。このジャケットは通称シドジャンと呼ばれ、ワッペン＆スタッズカスタムしたものは一世を風靡しました。ルイスで言えば、ドミネーターと同型で、シンプルなデザインは何にでも合わせやすいレザージャケットです。シングルは他の型もありますが、LJ M-17の特徴は、左右にハンドウオーマーポケットと胸のボールチェーン付きポケットです。言わずもがないレギュラーフィットとタイトフィットも選択することができます。
❸Addict Clothes（アディクトクローズ）
2006年にヴィンテージライダースのお店として産声をあげたアディクトクローズ。代表の石嶋氏は、いくら良いヴィンテージの革ジャン（古着）を仕入れても、お客様への販売は一度しかできないことに憤りを感じていました。そういった思いから、2010年よりオリジナルのレザージャケットを製作して販売することに。数々のヴィンテージレザーを仕入れて販売してきたアディクトクローズだからこそ、徹底的に拘ったオリジナルのレザージャケットを展開しています。
アディクトと言えば、レザーは牛・馬・羊の革が選べるのですが、筆者は羊（シープ）推しです。他のブランドと違って、アディクトのシープは1.５mmの肉厚なシープを使っています。持つとずっしり重いシープスキンなのですが、着ると軽くて柔らかい革なので、すぐに体に馴染んでくれます。そしてシープのロンジャンでは珍しい、フルベジタブルタンニン鞣しの茶芯仕様で、経年変化が存分に楽しめます。またジッパー・ボールチェーン・ジップテープも既製品ではなく、オリジナルにこだわっているので、最高にカッコいいレザーウエアになっています。
そんなアディクトクローズの中から、オススメのモデルを3点紹介します。
・AD-01（シングルライダース）
アディクトクローズを代表するシングルライダース「AD-01」。ルイスで言うコルセアタイプですが、随所のアディクトらしさが詰まったシンプルで無骨な印象です。襟付きシングルには、左右にハンドウォーマーポケット、フロントにフラップベルト、そしてバックにアジャスターベルト（左右）が付いています。現行モデルでは、インナー生地は薄いワインレッドキルティングを使用し、インナーポケットも標準装備です。どの革を選んでも肉厚で重厚な感じなのですが、デザイン的には何にでも合わせやすいそんなAD-01だと思います。
・AD-03
続きましてはアディクトクローズを代表するダブルライダース「AD-03」。ルイスで言えばサイクロン型ですが、AD-01と同様にアディクトらしいブリティッシュなアシンメトリージャケットです。３つのボールチェーン付きポケット、フロントにフラップベルト、バックにアジャスター付きベルト（左右）が付いています。ダブルでありながら、シンプルでカッコいいそんな革ジャンを探している方には、マストなアイテムだと思います。
下記の写真は限定販売のディアスキン・芯通しのホワイトAD-01
・AD-10
最後に紹介するのが60年代のレーシングジャケットをオマージュした「AD-10」。実は筆者はベルスタッフのオイルドコットンの同型を持っているのですが、アディクトの拘りの革で作るとどうなるのでしょうか。４つの大きなポケット、ウエストを絞れるレザーベルトは存在感抜群です。このAD-10を着込んで茶芯が出てくる頃には、クラシカルで素晴らしい1着になること間違いないでしょう。
・３ブランドの革の種類＆サイズ感
この章では、上記にオススメした３ブランドの選べる革の種類、およびサイズ感について言及したいと思います。
❶ジェームスグロースの革とサイズ感
ジェームスグロースで選べる革の種類は、次の3種類です。
・カウ：厚さ1.2~1.4mm・クローム鞣し・アニリン染め・顔料仕上げ
・ホース：厚さ1.0~1.2mm・ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・アニリン染め・ワックス仕上げ
・シープ：厚さ1.0~1.2mm・ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・アニリン染め・顔料仕上げ
サイズ感はルイスに比べるとタイトめなので、ワンサイズ上の選択を推奨します。
❷666の革とサイズ感
666で選べる革の種類は、次の4種類です。
・ステアハイド：厚さ1.４mm・クロム鞣し・黒芯・顔料仕上げ
・シープスキン：厚さ0.8~1.0mm・コンビ鞣し・黒芯・アニリン染め
・ウールシープスキン：厚さ1.3mm・ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・茶芯・顔料仕上げ
・ホースハイド：厚さ1.4mm・ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・茶芯・顔料仕上げ
ルイス同様に、レギュラーorタイトフィットを選択可能なので、ルイス同様のサイズ感です。
❸アディクトクローズの革とサイズ感
アディクトクローズで選べる革の種類は次の4種類です。
・シープ：厚さ1.5mm・ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・茶芯
・キップ：厚さ不明：ベジタブルタンニン鞣し・茶芯
・ホース：厚さ1.3mm・コンビ鞣し・茶芯
・ディア：厚さ不明：コンビ鞣し・黒芯
アディクトのサイズ感はルイスに比べると若干ゆったりめですが、ルイスと同様のサイズを選んで問題ないと思います。
＊サイズ感についてはあくまで筆者の感想なので、参考程度でお考え下さい。本当は、お店に行って試着するのが良いです。
・最後に
お久しぶりの革ジャン投稿如何でしたでしょうか？まだまだ残暑が厳しいですが、レザーの肩慣らしをそろそろ始めましょう。今回は、残念ながら注文したルイスが来ないので、他メーカーのロンジャンについて言及してみました。どのブランドも甲乙つけ難いですが、購入に当たってそれぞれポイントがあります。
・ジェームスグロース：英国産レザージャケットを少しタイトに、そしてスタイリッシュに着たい。
・666：とにかくリーズナブルに、カッコよくロンジャンが着たい。（平均でルイスより10万円くらい安いです）
・アディクトクローズ：肉厚な革を使ったロンジャンで茶芯や経年変化を楽しみたい。
このような思いがある方は、むしろルイスではなくてこの３ブランドの革ジャンを選んで下さい。そしてレザーラバーたるもの、革のエイジング（経年変化）が大好きだと思います。現状のルイスはベジカウ以外、経年変化が見えにくいクロム鞣しです。しかし、この３ブランドには全てベジタブルタンニン鞣しの茶芯仕様がラインナップされており、エイジングを楽しみながら革ジャンを着ることがでできます。そんなこと言ってたら、本当にもう1着ロンジャンが欲しくなってきました。このポストを読んでくれた方が、素敵なロンジャンに出会えることを心より祈っております。
↓合わせて読んで欲しい投稿
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